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Little Italy's Feast Shrinks Amid Generational Shift
26 Sep
Summary
- The Feast of San Gennaro, celebrating its 100th year, is notably smaller.
- Little Italy's Italian-American population has drastically declined since 1950.
- New vendors try modern flavors as older generation's influence wanes.
The 100th annual Feast of San Gennaro in Manhattan's Little Italy is a testament to longevity, but also a symbol of the neighborhood's changing landscape. Established in 1926 to honor Saint Januarius, patron saint of Naples, the 11-day festival once commanded Mulberry Street from Houston to Canal. However, over the years, traffic constraints have reduced its footprint.
The event now navigates a reality of a dwindling older generation who were instrumental in establishing Little Italy's Italian-American restaurants. Anthony Fontana, 72, notes only a handful of the original community members remain. This demographic shift is stark: the Italian-American population, which was nearly half of the neighborhood in 1950, dropped to 5 percent by 2010.
This cultural evolution is reflected in the festival's offerings. While traditional fare like zeppoles and sausages remain, vendors are incorporating tropical drinks and modern cannoli flavors to attract younger crowds. Vivian Catenaccio, president of the feast's nonprofit, acknowledges the need to feature diverse cuisines.
Despite the challenges, some families continue their legacy. Jaeden Fontana, Anthony's 27-year-old grandson, remains committed to the family business, navigating the complexities of rent and payroll. He observes thriving modern Italian establishments nearby and hopes for increased recognition of Little Italy's enduring appeal.
