Gucci's Bold New Walk: Will it Save the Brand?

Milan Fashion Week saw a dramatic debut from Demna at Gucci, where the emphasis was on the models' physicality and expressive walk, with the clothing serving as a backdrop to the body's movement. This collection, featuring slinky, body-conscious pieces, aims to capture a new audience while addressing the financial pressures faced by Gucci's parent company, Kering, whose stock has recently dipped. The success of this 'reset' remains to be seen, with potential impacts ranging from increased store traffic to a new focus on fitness.

In contrast, Meryll Rogge's debut at Marni marked a return to the brand's eccentric and playful roots, echoing the founder Consuelo Castiglioni's original vision. Rogge's collection featured bold blazers, statement jewelry, and vibrant colors, injecting a much-needed sense of fun back into Milan's fashion scene, which has recently leaned towards understated 'quiet luxury'. This energetic approach draws parallels to other notable moments in Milan fashion.

Other highlights from the week included Emporio Armani's collection, which appeared to intentionally mirror coveted 1980s and 1990s Armani pieces, suggesting a strategic nod to the growing resale market. Unique accessories also made appearances, such as a knit firefighter's helmet from Sasuphi. Fashion commentary also emerged from unexpected sources, with Tyler, the Creator offering a critique of J. Press's Instagram presence. Footwear innovation was noted with Tod's hybrid driving shoe-sneaker, and Gucci notably featured Liverpool rapper EsDeeKid at their show.