Fenix: Greek Fine Dining or Kitsch Extravaganza?

A new Greek restaurant named Fenix has opened in London's Mayfair, embodying a maximalist approach to dining. This establishment, an offshoot of the successful Manchester-based Tattu Chinese restaurant chain, brings a lavish, Athenian-inspired interior to the city. Despite economic downturns, Fenix presents a visually ornate and sumptuously decorated space, contrasting with a more minimalist hospitality trend. The restaurant's design is described as a blend of an Aegean haven and luxurious decor, reflecting the flamboyant style of its sister establishment.

Fenix offers a refined take on Greek cuisine, with dishes such as deconstructed moussaka made with short rib and smoked taramasalata. While the presentation can be flamboyant, featuring cocktails with theatrical elements and dishes garnished with roe or caviar, the food itself is considered serious. The menu includes elevated versions of classics like calamari and tuna tartare, alongside more traditional options and a set menu. The ambiance at Fenix is noted as more serene than Tattu, attracting patrons seeking upscale Greek small plates.