Recycled Polyester: Fashion's Microplastic Deception?

Fashion's celebrated shift to recycled polyester is not the environmental win it appears to be. A recent laboratory investigation commissioned by the Changing Markets Foundation found that recycled polyester sheds more microfibers, and even finer particles, than virgin polyester, worsening microplastic pollution. This challenges the industry's narrative that recycled polyester is a sustainable solution.

The study, which tested garments from major brands like Adidas, H&M, and Zara, suggests that the widespread adoption of recycled polyester serves as a 'sustainability fig leaf.' While brands tout progress in reducing virgin plastic reliance, they are simultaneously increasing overall synthetic fiber production. Moreover, 98 percent of recycled polyester originates from downcycled plastic bottles, not old textiles, preventing true circularity and locking materials into garments that are difficult to recycle further.

This reliance on recycled synthetics masks the fundamental problem of microfiber shedding. Brands continue to increase their use of recycled polyester, with many pledging transitions by 2030. However, the process of recycling plastic bottles into polyester weakens the fibers, making them more prone to fragmentation and pollution. Experts advocate for a slowdown and phase-out of synthetic fiber production, coupled with ending the diversion of plastic bottles into disposable clothing.