Start-ups Disrupt Watch Resale Scene

A wave of online start-ups is transforming the pre-owned luxury watch market. These companies are tackling long-standing issues of pricing transparency and authenticity, often employing artificial intelligence and sophisticated tech tools. This innovation aims to bring order to what has been described as the 'Wild West' of used watch sales, with the secondary market projected to potentially eclipse new watch sales within the next decade.

The pre-owned watch market is a substantial and growing sector, with annual sales estimated between $25 billion and $30 billion. While many traditional watch brands cite capacity issues or focus on new production, new entrants are stepping in. Platforms like Bezel and Reklaim are using AI to vet watches for authenticity and establish standardized product identification, offering greater trust to both retailers and consumers.

Tools are also emerging to provide collectors with better data and provenance. Services like WatchCharts and EveryWatch offer pricing indices and digital tools for managing watch collections, akin to how investors manage other assets. The EveryWatch Passport, for instance, provides a digital record of a watch's history, enhancing its value upon resale. Collected.io offers similar features, focusing on standardized contracts and community features.

A significant development in the market is Rolex's certified pre-owned (C.P.O.) program. Launched in late 2022, this initiative involves inspecting and refurbishing pre-owned Rolexes, which are then sold through authorized dealers at a premium. Despite higher prices, the program has seen considerable success, with significant transaction values estimated for 2025, underscoring a trend toward greater trust and liquidity in the secondhand watch trade.