Yui Chen's 'Food Cover' Reigns Supreme at Hyères

The 41st Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Accessories has entered a new era under its incoming leadership team, emphasizing emerging talent. Chinese designer Yui Chen secured the Grand Jury Prize for her collection titled 'Food Cover,' inspired by deconstructed food covers to create sculptural silhouettes. Xiao Xu, another Paris-based Chinese designer, won the second annual Supima Prize for her collection 'Uncanny,' which blended domestic familiarity with fetishistic sensuality.

Mexican-German designer Dieter Vlasich Obermann received the Le19M Métiers d'Arts Prize for 'Tiliches,' celebrating handmade objects. Rachel Luurssen won the Atelier des Matières prize for 'Pandora's Box: The Pursuit of Perfection,' exploring beauty and vulnerability. Spanish designer Brais Albor Rodriguez earned a special mention and the public prize for his 'Por Mis Santos Cojones' collection.

Under new leadership including President Valérie Duport and Managing Director Hugo Lucchino, the festival has refocused resources on supporting designers and photographers. This shift involves concentrating on exhibitions and fashion shows, with associate artistic directors enhancing finalist support. The festival also highlighted women in leadership, with juries headed by Chemena Kamali, Cecilie Bahnsen, and Camille Vivier, aiming to provide role models for aspiring creatives.

Discussions during the festival also addressed the realities of building a fashion business. Designers and industry experts debated the decline of traditional wholesale models, with many young brands prioritizing direct-to-consumer sales and collaborations due to profitability challenges and retailers' demands. This conversation underscored the evolving landscape for emerging fashion enterprises.