Angular Diamonds Ditch Tradition for Geometry

Contemporary jewelry is increasingly featuring sharper, non-traditional diamond cuts, with triangular and angular shapes leading the way. Designers, particularly those with roots in India, Japan, and Thailand, are introducing fresh dimensions to jewelry design. These cuts are valued for their geometry and bold attitude, alongside their inherent brilliance. Studio Renn, based in Mumbai, is notable for combining unusual diamond cuts with materials like discarded wood and concrete. Their designs, which will be showcased in New York in November, include triangular diamonds in brilliant and rose cuts, with pieces like a ring featuring a triangular diamond set in concrete and grey gold.

Japanese jeweler Tasaki, under the creative direction of Thakoon Panichgul, has introduced a proprietary 36-facet Fang diamond cut, resembling a curved claw, to its Danger collection. This move aims to depart from conventional diamond cuts. Similarly, Kavant & Sharart from Bangkok is highlighting trapezoid-cut diamonds, typically used as side stones, in their Mingle Trapeze collection. This innovation draws inspiration from the symmetry and depth of Rajasthan's stepwells, aiming for structure and movement rather than just sparkle.

Jewelers like Katherine Kim of Katkim in Los Angeles are exploring how triangular diamonds translate into personal choices, especially in engagement rings. Kim emphasizes the importance of proportion and balance, often setting the triangular diamond as the center stone to give it a leading role. This choice reflects a wearer's deeper connection to design and their personal perception of beauty. In London, designers Rachel Boston and Lily Gabriella Elia also note a client preference for strong geometry, indicating a growing desire for edgy yet refined jewelry with a distinct point of view.