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Delhi Ruins May Be Lost Portuguese Inn
22 Aug
Summary
- Ruins beneath Modi Mill flyover may be 18th-century Sarai Juliana.
- Built by Dona Juliana Dias da Costa, a Portuguese woman at the Mughal court.
- MCD plans to notify the structure as a heritage site.

Archaeological fragments discovered beneath Delhi's Modi Mill flyover on Mathura Road are believed to be the remains of Sarai Juliana. This 18th-century travellers' inn was reportedly built by Dona Juliana Dias da Costa, a notable Portuguese woman who held a unique position within the Mughal court.
The site, located within a PWD-maintained green space, exhibits remnants such as sections of walls, an arched opening, building fragments, and a functioning well. Dr. Aqil Ahmed of the MCD's Heritage Cell indicated that the civic body intends to officially recognize the structure as a heritage site.
Historical accounts suggest Juliana constructed the sarai in Okhla around 1720 during Muhammad Shah 'Rangeela's reign, serving as a rest stop for European travelers. This information is detailed in 'Juliana Nama,' a book by Raghuraj Singh Chauhan and Madhukar Tewari.
The location itself is historically significant, lying along the ancient Sadak-e-Azam, the precursor to the Grand Trunk Road. Such inns were crucial along major routes for travelers and caravans needing places to rest.
The presence of Lakhori bricks, characteristic of Mughal-era construction, and the surviving archwork suggest the original building was substantial. The well, with its preserved original lining, is a key identifying feature.
Dona Juliana Dias da Costa was known for her medical knowledge, treating royal women and educating princes, including Muazzam, Aurangzeb's son and future Emperor Bahadur Shah I. She had amassed enough wealth and standing to fund the sarai's construction in 1720 before her death in Goa in 1734.
These ruins, comprising brick fragments, stone pieces, a broken arch, and a well, may finally provide the physical evidence for the sarai that gave Sarai Julena its name, potentially reintegrating this forgotten monument into Delhi's recorded heritage.