Babbo Reborn: Ladner's Subtle Menu Updates Shine

Babbo, the renowned Manhattan restaurant originally opened by Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich, is undergoing a culinary transformation under the guidance of Chef Mark Ladner. Now under the stewardship of Stephen Starr, the restaurant sees Ladner, who previously managed the haute Del Posto, at its helm. While the menu initially appears familiar, Ladner's thoughtful updates are evident as dishes are served.

The kitchen is re-imagining classics, such as the warm lamb tongue salad, now enhanced with truffled mushrooms and tomatoes. Ladner has opted for lighter preparations, for instance, removing the rich poached duck egg from the dish. The celebrated goat cheese tortellini remain remarkably light, now featuring yuzu peel for a fresh citrus note.

Some dishes, however, still present challenges, with lamb scottadito being noted for its overly large portion size, a holdover from Ladner's time at Del Posto. While the desserts are described as interesting in concept, they lack execution due to the absence of a dedicated pastry chef. Nevertheless, when Ladner embraces his straightforward style, exceptional results emerge, exemplified by the incredibly succulent rabbit and a deeply flavored minestrone.