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Spain's Useless Napkins: A Beloved Tradition
18 Jun
Summary
- Spanish napkins, though functionally poor, are cherished cultural items.
- Personalized napkins serve as unique historical and artistic records.
- The 'beauty of the useless' defines their enduring appeal in Spain.
The servilleta, a thin paper napkin commonly found in Spanish bars and restaurants, is surprisingly cherished despite its limited practical use. Originally intended to keep hands clean, their papery texture makes them ineffective for mopping spills or blowing one's nose, yet they remain a fixture.
Discarding used napkins on the floor, along with other small pieces of trash, was once a sign of an authentic, humble bar, though this practice has become less common and is not universally accepted. Some establishments even display signs encouraging this custom.
Beyond their basic function, servilletas offer a canvas for personalization. Many feature simple "thank you" messages, while others display unique text or monochrome imagery. Photographer Felipe Hernandez has been collecting these personalized napkins since 2014, amassing over 1,000.
Hernandez's book, "Servilletas," showcases 600 of these unique napkins, highlighting how they reflect a bar's culinary prowess or local character through text and illustrations. These personal touches represent a resistance against the growing standardization of Spain's gastronomic scene.
These small, often overlooked details on servilletas carry significant cultural weight, especially as older establishments face challenges from gentrification and rising costs. For some, like the now-closed Mesón Planeta, the napkins are among the few remaining physical reminders of their existence.