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Ranji Smile: NYC's First Indian Culinary Star
28 Oct
Summary
- He introduced Indian dishes like chicken Madras curry to New York.
- Smile faced discrimination due to racist laws targeting Asians.
- He traveled the country demonstrating Indian cooking by 1907.
In 1899, Ranji Smile, an Indian chef with a flair for promotion, arrived in New York City. He quickly became a sensation at Sherry's restaurant on Fifth Avenue, dazzling the city's elite with authentic Indian flavors. Newspapers dubbed him the "King of Curry Chefs," drawn to his charismatic persona and stories of princely origins. Smile introduced New Yorkers to dishes like chicken Madras curry, bhaji, and pappadums, while also critiquing American misunderstandings of curry preparation.
Smile's journey was complicated by America's discriminatory immigration laws. He was denied U.S. citizenship in 1904 because the law at the time reserved naturalization for white individuals. Despite these hurdles, Smile expanded his reach beyond New York, traveling the country by 1907 to give cooking demonstrations. He aimed to teach American homemakers authentic Indian dishes, cementing his role as America's first Indian celebrity chef.
Further complicating his legacy, research suggests Smile operated a Chicago restaurant called The Hindustan in 1920. While this indicates a longer restaurant career than previously thought, it does not confirm him as the founder of the first Indian restaurant in the U.S., a title likely belonging to Ceylon India Inn. Smile's story highlights the intersection of food, immigration, ambition, and race in America's history.
