Underwear Evolution: M&S Adds Ann Summers to Site

Marks & Spencer is now selling Ann Summers lingerie on its website, a move that has generated online controversy, with some reactions describing the partnership as "tawdry" or "S&M." Experts, however, see this as a natural progression in the brand's century-long history of evolving underwear trends.

M&S has expanded its offerings beyond traditional items, now including period knickers and stoma-friendly options. The introduction of third-party brands online began five years ago, with Ann Summers joining other labels like Pour Moi and Calvin Klein. This strategy aims to introduce M&S to new market sectors.

The retailer has seen a significant increase in younger customers, with individuals under 30 making up a third of underwear sales in 2024, doubling from the previous year. The Ann Summers partnership is intended to further engage this demographic, capitalizing on the brand's association with sensuality.

This expansion is part of M&S's broader "brands at M&S" strategy to offer greater customer choice. While the publicity from such a move is significant, it also encourages online visits and potential purchases of other items. M&S has a long history in underwear, selling them since the 1920s and fitted bras since 1947.

Fashion dictates a constant shift in underwear styles, from the "hip-hugger" styles of the 1960s to the mid-2000s popularity of thongs, and later Brazilian knickers in 2016. By 2021, thongs saw a resurgence due to low-rise jeans. Currently, a five-pack of white full briefs is the top bestseller on their website.

Experts argue that the reaction to specific items like "crotchless knickers" is disproportionate, given M&S's diverse range, which includes elegant lace designs. Historically, open-crotch underwear was common before the 1920s, suggesting the current reaction may be overstated.