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NYC Pizza's Secret Ingredient Under Fire
22 May
Summary
- A bill nearing signature in New York could ban potassium bromate.
- The additive is already banned in the EU, China, India, and Canada.
- Experts warn the ban could alter New York's iconic baked goods.
New York lawmakers are considering a bill that would ban potassium bromate, an additive used in flour for many pizzas and bagels. This ingredient, suspected to be a carcinogen, is already outlawed in regions including the European Union, China, India, and Canada, with California set to follow next year. For decades, potassium bromate has been a staple for New York bakers, contributing to the distinct chewiness and structure of their products.
Salvatore Lo Duca, a Brooklyn pizzeria owner, has begun adjusting his family's recipe, noting that alternative flours are more expensive but offer superior quality. Similarly, Jesse Spellman of Utopia Bagels is experimenting with yeast and rise times, acknowledging that achieving the classic bagel texture will require more effort and cost.
Pizza historian Scott Wiener estimates that around 80% of New York's pizza and bagel shops use bromated flour, which speeds up dough production. He believes the shift to unbromated flour, like General Mills' alternative, could ultimately improve the quality and digestibility of these beloved foods. A one-year grace period is expected if the bill passes, allowing businesses time to adapt.
While some consumers may find baked goods made without potassium bromate more palatable, its absence has sparked debate about the future of New York's culinary identity. A spokesperson for Governor Kathy Hochul confirmed the bill is under review, leaving many in the industry awaiting its fate.
