YSL's Le Smoking: A 60-Year Power Dressing Evolution

Sixty years after its inception, Yves Saint Laurent's iconic Le Smoking suit graced the Paris runway again. The 2026 iteration was designed by Anthony Vaccarello, who was celebrating a decade at the fashion house's helm. This rendition offered a distinct 1980s Wall Street-inspired look, featuring oversized jackets and maximalist jewelry, diverging from the brand's signature sleek tailoring.

The show, held in a modernist glass setting before an illuminated Eiffel Tower, presented Vaccarello's decade-long vision. Despite a recent flattening in the luxury market, with Kering reporting annual revenues of approximately €2.6bn (£2.3bn) down 8% year-on-year, the YSL brand remains a significant Parisian export. Simon Longland of Harrods noted the brand's resilience and continued consumer interest.

Fashion often mirrors culture, but it also provides an avenue for aspiration and fantasy. This collection, with its powerful silhouettes and opulent details, offered a vision of dressing for the world one desires, a potent message in current times. Paris Fashion Week, a major financial and cultural event, proceeded as scheduled, with organizers remaining attentive to global events.