Costume Designers Unpack 'The Shards' Iconic 80s Looks

The visual aesthetic of Ryan Murphy's "The Shards" is deeply rooted in early 1980s Los Angeles style, heavily influenced by Bret Easton Ellis's novel and Murphy's distinct directorial vision. Costume designers Lou Eyrich and Joshua Marsh collaborated closely to translate the book's fashion references into compelling on-screen looks.

Inspirations for the series' wardrobe were diverse, spanning iconic films like "American Gigolo" and the groundbreaking work of designers such as Giorgio Armani, Claude Montana, and Thierry Mugler. The designers also drew from the era's music scene, referencing artists like Adam Ant and Boy George, and visually drawing from "Soul Train" and "American Bandstand."

Each character's style was meticulously crafted to reflect their personality and background. Susan's look evoked Southern California iconography with brands like Ralph Lauren, while Debbie embodied MTV's influence with a rocker-glam, New Wave aesthetic. The male characters also featured distinct styles, from preppy to East Coast Ivy League.

Specific scenes, like the "Murder on the Dance Floor" episode's "Dance-Off!" sequence, required costumes that allowed for movement and helped characters stand out. Designer Claude Montana's signature styles were particularly evident in Terry's wardrobe. Jordan Roth's character, Steven, was styled with a "sinister glamour" using vintage pieces from designers like Alaïa and Valentino.

Cha Cha's costume, a red jumpsuit, was designed to accommodate her provocative dancing style and drew inspiration from '80s interpretations of '50s fashion. The designers sourced both vintage pieces and created custom outfits, highlighting the detailed craftsmanship involved, including a brown tuxedo made in just two days.

Looking ahead, Eyrich and Marsh hinted at further stylistic developments in the season's latter episodes, suggesting costumes will mirror the characters' unraveling personal journeys. The demanding yet rewarding process involved juggling multiple projects, a testament to Murphy's prolific output and the team's dedication.