Beyond Ideal Forms: Met Show Embraces Diverse Bodies

The Metropolitan Museum of Art's "Costume Art" exhibition, opening in the new Condé M. Nast Galleries, explores the enduring connection between art and fashion. The show features mirrored pairs of art and garments, demonstrating how clothing links all 17 museum departments. A significant departure from typical displays, the exhibition includes nine new mannequins based on actual individuals with diverse body types.

These innovative forms represent larger bodies, those in wheelchairs, pregnant bodies, trans bodies, and individuals with missing limbs. Each is topped with a steel oval, inviting visitors to see themselves reflected. Artist Michaela Stark notes this "institutionalizes the idea that bodies are different," while Aimee Mullins highlights its emphasis on self-reflection. These new mannequins are intended as permanent additions to the Costume Institute's collection, promising to influence future exhibitions.

Andrew Bolton, curator of the Costume Institute, initiated this expansion to include more designers of color and non-European couture, alongside augmenting the display forms. The initiative began in 2023 with "Women Dressing Women" and is now significantly expanded. Models like Black trans model Aariana Rose Philip see this as a crucial commitment to inclusivity and diversity, especially during challenging sociopolitical times.

Though making up a small fraction of the exhibition's total mannequins, these new forms are deeply emotional for the models involved. For many, it represents a long-sought recognition of diverse bodies in fashion history. The museum is also training its staff to discuss these new displays and the nuances of language surrounding them, offering an opportunity for visitors to engage with lived experiences.