Chiuri's Fendi debut: "Less I, more us"

Maria Grazia Chiuri has returned to the fashion forefront with her highly anticipated debut collection for Fendi, unveiled during Milan fashion week. Her tenure commenced with a powerful statement, featuring the motto "Less I, more us," intended to celebrate Fendi's rich, multi-generational female leadership and the Italian approach to fashion centered on shared ideas and freedom.

Chiuri, who previously spent a decade at Fendi as a young designer, presented a collection that shifted from an opulent "rich-lady aesthetic" towards designs reflecting contemporary women's lives. This included looks featuring oversized blazers, jeans, trenchcoats, and practical dual-bag styling. The show also tackled Fendi's historical association with fur by exclusively using archival furs and introducing an atelier for clients to repurpose vintage pieces.

Further underscoring a connection to Fendi's innovative past, Chiuri's designs nodded to Karl Lagerfeld's legacy, featuring starched white collars and "5 SISTERS" slogan scarves. The iconic Baguette bag, a design Chiuri co-credited from her earlier Fendi tenure, was a central element, showcased in vibrant new iterations, signaling a strong revival for the accessory.

Chiuri's appointment follows her successful seven-year period at Dior, where revenues significantly increased. She has spoken about the unequal recognition male and female designers receive for commercial success, aiming for her achievements at Fendi to be viewed through a lens of business acumen, not just commercial appeal.