London Fashion Week: Size Inclusivity Reclaims Catwalk

London Fashion Week witnessed a significant return of body diversity on the catwalk, a move championed by emerging designers. Karoline Vitto, Phoebe English, and Sinead Gorey notably included models representing a broad spectrum of body shapes and sizes, ranging from UK sizes 10-16 (mid-size) to 18 and above (plus-size or curve models).

This initiative stands in contrast to a concerning industry-wide shift back towards promoting thinness, as evidenced by recent reports showing minimal plus-size representation. Designers like Vitto explicitly aimed to reflect their brand's inclusive sizing, showcasing models with varied proportions to demonstrate how garments would appear on different bodies. Some models even covered their own travel costs to support these inclusive shows.

The trend also extended to age diversity, with older models, such as 47-year-old Karen Elson, appearing on runways. Casting directors noted that while emerging designers are making strides in inclusivity, a broader change is needed from major fashion houses, which often set the commercial standard for younger brands. The influence of a general cultural emphasis on thinness, potentially exacerbated by factors like weight-loss drugs, also impacts model selection.

Despite these challenges, designers like Vitto express optimism, viewing inclusivity as a fundamental aspect of fashion rather than a fleeting trend. They highlight that many of these body-diverse brands are led by women who intimately understand the pressures and realities of female bodies. This focus on diverse representation aims to ensure fashion remains accessible and reflective of a wider audience.