Tortoiseshell Reimagined: Jewelry's Bold New Era

Greek jewelry designer Nikos Koulis has launched a distinctive collection named '77,' inspired by the aesthetic of his sunglasses. Koulis sought to capture the bold elegance and cosmopolitan spirit reminiscent of the 1970s. He was particularly fascinated by the way light interacted with the material of his sunglasses, transforming its color.

The material chosen for this collection is cellulose acetate, a plant-derived substance. This choice reflects a modern approach, as genuine tortoiseshell became restricted due to conservation efforts in 1977. Koulis commissioned custom blocks of acetate, thicker than usual, to showcase its inherent veining.

Koulis commissioned a German factory to produce the custom cellulose acetate blocks. Testing in his Athens workshop revealed the material's need for reinforcement to be compatible with fine jewelry standards. This led to the application of a special coating, ensuring durability alongside gold and diamonds.

The '77' collection comprises 27 unique pieces, each crafted from cellulose acetate, diamonds, and 18-karat white and yellow gold. Koulis chose 1977 as the collection's namesake, associating it with vibrant cultural and aesthetic movements. Designs include hoop earrings with diamonds and acetate elements, a choker with cushion-cut diamonds and gold, and an 18-karat white gold ring.

Some special one-of-a-kind pieces incorporating black enamel were slated for debut at Koulis's Paris flagship store. Koulis believes that the contrast between materials, rather than inherent preciousness, creates value. This perspective aligns him with other jewelers who have elevated non-precious materials through design and craftsmanship.