Kani Shawls: A Timeless Craft Reimagined

Kani weaving, recognized as the oldest handicraft of Kashmir, employs a unique technique using small wooden spools called 'kanis'. Colored pashmina threads are wound onto these spools and interlocked with a base yarn to form intricate patterns guided by a coded script known as 'taleem'. Historians suggest this art form was inspired by Persian tapestry art and was institutionalized in the 15th century.

These handwoven kani shawls are celebrated for their artistry, warmth, and premium feel. Crafted predominantly from fine pashmina, they are exceptionally light yet provide significant insulation. The intricate weaving process is time-consuming, with a single shawl potentially taking between three months and a year to finish, placing them in the ultra-luxury category.

While some artisans now use alternative base fabrics for economic reasons, purists continue to use pure pashmina, and some have innovated by blending kani weaving with materials like Banarasi zari. Contemporary designers are incorporating diverse motifs, drawing from various cultures, though traditional patterns like chinar and paisleys remain popular.